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Late summer perfect for an evening of tapas
Tim Pawsey
Contributing Writer
In the narrow streets of Madrid's la Cava Baja, on balmy summer nights it seems as if the whole town is out for tapas, wandering from place to place, nibbling and sipping to its heart's content - or at least as much as the ever growing crowd permits.
The secret is to eat and drink sparingly at each place. Walk in and order a small glass of draught beer - or wine if you prefer. Chances are they'll bring you a few olives to tide you over while you decide what to order.
It's a scene repeated all over the country, and a vital part of life, particularly in summer, when the late and small hours are the day's most comfortable. The simpler the plate the more it's appreciated. In Rioja's Logrono we found garlic-dowsed brocheta gambas (shrimp skewers), while San Sebastian's highlight came with Gandarias Taberna's trio of mushrooms over perfectly cured jamon (ham).
In the Lower Mainland, where balmy nights are few and far between, so far, we don't have an obvious tapa neighbourhood, although Spanish wine and tapa aficionados make the pilgrimage to La Masia (19209 Fraser Hwy.; 604-574-7633), a very authentic Spanish hideaway in South Langley.
Over the years, owner Maurice Aguilar has built up quite the cellar, with a wine list that wins consistent accolades from the likes of the Vancouver Playhouse International Wine Festival. When Aguilar quit downtown some 30 years ago, this saffron and tile trimmed spot was truly a country haunt. Today's much busier Fraser Highway is well hidden behind the walled courtyard that makes for the perfect spot to sample some Spanish tastes with a lingering lunch.
La Masia's plates are thorough but dutifully simple. In fact, the owner-chef is disdainful of the trend to modern cuisines, prefering traditional tapas - which he pairs with wines from the most comprehensive Spanish cellar around.
Vega Sinda Ros‚ 2004. More Spanish winemakers are playing with non-native varieties, sometimes with great success. This versatile Cabernet Grenache blend boasts a clean character with good fruit and decent acidity that goes very well with gazpacho. ($12.90, LDB.) Aguilar makes it when good tomatoes are still plentiful - a burst of fresh tomato with highlights of garlic, cucumber and celery, as well as onion, red and green peppers, bread crumbs, red wine vinegar, salt and white pepper - but shuns the cream that shows up in modern recipes. Aguilar uses his tapa menu to highlight the versatility of several Spanish wines.
The quiet minerality, tropical and citrus notes of Burgans Albarino '04 (LDB $19.95) balances zesty halibut and shrimp ceviche, primed for just a couple of hours (the fish is firmer that way) with onion, celery and lime juice. Galiceans pride their Albarino (also superb with oysters) which can often sport a distinctly marine character.
Peseta Roble 2003 is one of those under-appreciated Spanish reds that sneaks up on you: a worthy budget blend of Monastrell, Tempranillo and Merlot, it has bursts of fruit forward black cherry and smoky licorice with a spicy end that goes nicely with La Masia's gently crisp calamari (LDB $14.99).
Staunch Catalan Aguilar pours Galicean Albarino under protest, claiming he'd rather drink good Cava instead: sure enough, it shows up beside creamy flan and lightly fried churros for dessert: Juve y Camps Reserva de la Familia 2001, the best Cava on the market. Toasty and distinctly yeasty with tremendous texture, this is a great alternative to champagne or local bubble: LDB $29.99).
Good tapa, no matter where you find them, are based on the best of local ingredients, simply and freshly prepared - no shortage at this Fraser Valley destination.
* * * In a series of events that continue to showcase new releases, the B.C. Wine Institute presents ChefmeetsGrape, this Tuesday, Sept. 20, 6-9 p.m. at the Vancouver Convention & Exhibition Centre's Parkview Terrace.
A fundraiser for the Pacific Salmon Foundation, this tasting presents 13 of the city's top chefs pairing small salmon plates to pair with VQA autumn releases from over 40 wineries.
Awards will be conferred for the best use of local ingredients, flavour, texture, presentation and wine match, along with a People's Choice Award. Tickets are $75 available from winebc.com/tickets or 1-800-661-2294 ext. 152.
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Chilean wines roll into town in a big way this Thursday at the new Rocky Mountaineer Station (1755 Cottrell St., just before Home Depot, heading east off Terminal Avenue). This year's tour, the biggest yet, features 30 plus wineries and principals pouring over 150 wines, covering the full spectrum. This is a great cross section of Chilean wines to taste at one sitting with most of the familiar names in attendance. Chile continues to deliver value at all price points. Check out some premium pours from the likes of Montes, Errazuriz et al. 7-10 p.m. Tickets $40 (or $145 for four) benefit the Roundhouse Youth Programmes. Call 604-713-1800.
published on 09/18/2005
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