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Array of styles star at Naramata Bench event
Tim Pawsey
Contributing Writer
If there's one thing the Naramata Bench bunch know how to do it's throw a good party.
Between fashion shows and good eats, there was no shortage of worthwhile distractions at last week's third annual Naramata Bench Spring Release Tasting, where even a few winemakers got up enough courage to strut their stuff out of the bottle down the runway.
One thing we appreciate about the bench is its collection of strong-willed characters (well, most winegrowers tend to be that way) which results in a wide array of styles and ideas that propels what must surely be the province's most determined of small regions. Part of that drive comes from Bernie Hadley Beauregard (of Blasted Church, Laughing Stock, Therapy, Dirty - off the bench - Laundry fame and who knows what else?), who happily feeds the bunch with all the irreverence and upbeat creativity they can handle.
There's a lesson in here somewhere for all of our other neophyte regions: to put aside differences and work all the angles, from the setting, accommodations and events, as well as what's in the bottle - even though we'd like to see wines that are actually made with grapes grown on the bench more clearly identified on the bottle. . . .
One of Naramata's biggest success stories of the last few years is La Frenz Winery, where Niva and Jeff Martin (formerly at Quails Gate) have developed consistently good quality for a wide range of varieties from Shiraz to Semillon.
La Frenz 2005 Viognier was arguably the best white at this tasting, with stone fruit aromas, generous fruit-forward style and rich, lengthy palate. Find it at PWS in early May, $19.
Another La Frenz "find," is the valley's first fortified (18.5 per cent alcohol by volume) Muscat liqueur, which Jeff Martin compares to some styles from Rutherglen, the premier fortified wine region in his native Australia. This is a smooth drop indeed, with floral, caramel aromas and raisin notes, and good but not cloying viscosity - quite delicious and very sippable. If you want some, go right to the winery. $20, 375 ml.
If you're in the neighbourhood for the Okanagan Spring Wine Festival (May 4-7, details at www.owfs.com) you should see if you can score a ticket to the La Frenz Barrel Tasting (May 6, 1-3 p.m.) where Jeff will sample '05 reserve Chardonnay and '04 Shiraz, and the $10 admission includes a 20-ounce wine glass. (250-492-6690).
Cynthia and David Enns, the pair behind neophyte Laughing Stock have unveiled a departure from their Bordeaux theme with very Burgundian Pinot Noir 2004 that's worth seeking out for its distinctive "barnyard" nose and fresh cherry strawberry notes with good acidity. In small batches only (though the two are currently hoping to source more grapes as time goes on), your best bet is to find it at the winery.
Picture perfect Lake Breeze also continues to deliver, this time with a very clean and gently tropical Pinot Blanc that's consistently one of the most varietally true in the valley. Also of note is the Okanagan's only Pinotage, which displays classic meaty notes with light to medium body and some complex spicy tones, though our hunch is that these vines are only just now beginning to show their potential.
Too many wines, too little time: watch for the intense green apples and slight mineral notes displayed by Lang Late Harvest Riesling 2005: refreshing with moderate acidity, interesting floral notes, and intense (And, while you're at it grab a bottle of their very quaffable Blanc de Noirs for your summer picnic kit).
This tasting showed that Naramata is maturing not only as a desirable tourism destination but also has plenty to say for itself in the bottle. Other tastes we warm to include Township 7 2004 Chardonnay (restrained, balanced oak, apple and citrus, $17.90), and Red Rooster 2005 Gewurz., which is developing into a perennial favourite, with floral, lychee and spicy notes. $14.90. VQA stores.
This tasting coincided with the news that Kitsilano's Vintropolis Wine Bar & Bistro will shortly set up a second restaurant in the elegant space vacated by The Quay on Marinaside Crescent in Vancouver - good news for wine lovers. And good news too for the Naramata Bench, whose wineries will, no doubt, continue to enjoy even more exposure.
published on 04/30/2006
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